How to Build a Poker Table
Get two 8-foot boards. Set the 2x4 top braces on edge across each side perpendicular to the top platforms. Repeat Steps 15 and 16 to secure the rest of the corbels to each face of the newel post, one at a time. Here's how to find plans for just about any project online. Measure over eight inches from each corner, draw a line and cut the corners off. Get video instructions about kitchens, bathrooms, remodeling, flooring, painting and more. Maine Cabin Masters 3pm 2c.
Overview for How to Build a Poker Table
Center the hole saw on the crosshair of your two degree marks. Use grit sandpaper to smooth the inside edges of the circular cutout. Repeat to create a total of eight coasters. Place the coasters on the playing table inside the 1x2 edge pieces so that the angled ends line up with a mitered joint and all face the same direction. Nail the coaster in place from the underside of the table using 1-inch nails.
Hold the nail gun at a slight angle to prevent any portion of the nail from poking up through the coaster piece. Lay a length of 1x2 flat on the table inside the ring of coaster blocks so that the edge of the 1x2 sits against the top edge of a coaster block. Mark the distance between the angled ends of two coasters. Lay the piece in place, and mark the remaining pieces until all the pieces of the inner ring are sized. Apply glue to the underside and ends of each piece, set them in place, and nail through the underside of the table to secure them.
To help position the nail gun underneath the table, cut a scrap piece of 1x2 to the distance the inner ring sits from the edge of the table and nail it to a second perpendicular block to create a T-shaped spacer.
Hook the T on the edge of the table with the stem underneath, and position the nail gun at the end of the stem. Mark the corners of the table on the top edge of the 1x3. Cut the MDF playing surface to this size. Lay the cut piece centered over the open center space.
Mark the joints of the inner ring of 1x2s on the playing surface. Connect the marks on either side of each corner to create a small octagon. Using a circular saw, cut the corners off the playing surface. Label the corresponding side of the playing surface and table. This way, once the felt is wrapped around the playing surface, you'll know which sides align.
Coat the underside of the felt and the top of the playing surface with spray adhesive. Allow the adhesive to dry until it feels tacky. Set the playing surface upside down on the center of the felt. Wrap the felt over one edge and secure it in place with a staple.
Wrap the felt over the next side, and fold the excess under like gift wrap. Once all the edges are pulled tight and the felt is glued and stapled in place, cut off the excess with utility scissors and set the playing surface aside. Cut two 1x4 boards to the width of the upper part of the newel post. Apply glue to the ends of the short pieces, and sandwich them between the longer pieces to create a box. Center the assembled collar on the underside of the table, and mark its inside and outside perimeters.
Apply glue to the top edge of the collar, and place it on the underside of the table, realigned with your previous marks. Allow the glue to dry until it holds the collar in place—or toenail a few nails around its edge to hold it—and flip the table over. Using a countersink bit, prepare the pilot holes and drive 2-inch screws through the plywood and into the top edges of the collar.
To position the taper of the newel post about half way between the table and the floor, cut the top and bottom of the post. First mark the cutlines 29 inches apart on all four sides of the post. Place the post on the miter saw, and cut it to size. If your miter saw can't cut the thickness of the entire post, cut part way through, then roll the post to the opposite face to finish the cut.
Sand all of the base pieces before beginning the assembly. Take both bottom platforms 20" and both top platforms 40" and mark the center points. Do this on both sides of all four pieces. Do this on one side of each piece. Carry these marks across with a speed square. Do this on the opposing side of both legs. Follow the directions above for each end of one side of each leg. Place each vertical leg 21" on a flat surface with the hole sides facing away from each other. Place the two middle braces 56" between the legs.
The end of each brace should line up between the end of each leg and the line you made. It should make a rectangle. Clamp down the pieces and place a long punch or screwdriver through the center of each hole and make a mark on the ends of the brace. Drill into each mark about four to five inches, being careful to keep the drill bit straight and perpendicular to the end of the brace. As the joints tighten, wipe away the excess wood glue.
Attach the two bottom and two top platforms to the ends of the legs. Use the same procedure as above. Attach the two 2x4 top braces 60" to the two top platforms. Set the 2x4 top braces on edge across each side perpendicular to the top platforms. The ends of the 2x4s should overhang the top platforms by four inches on each side.
Set the 2x4 eight inches in from the ends of the top platforms. Run a pencil along each side of the 2x4 to mark the top platforms and vice-versa. Fit the 2x4s into the notched top braces.
Pre-drill the 2x4s and attach them to the top braces with three-inch wood screws. Stain or paint the base as desired. Cut off the corners and then measure back 12 inches from each end and draw a line across. Find the center of each end and measure over eight inches in each direction and mark each. Draw a line from those marks to the ends to the inch line you made. Using this line, cut off all four corners with a circular saw. Set the cut sheet of MDF on the top of the base. Achieved Hall of Fame recognition in 4 different years.
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